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Hello. Great video. I have a 1992 omc cobra 3.0 ford engine. I am having trouble where it clunks into drive kinda hard. And then it is really hard to shift back to N. Also I do not notice the ESA activating a lower idle when it shifts. Question is should it lower the idle when shifting into F and R? I am going to follow step by step on your videos to check it all out. Oh and also when it goes into drive sometimes it does not get into gear solid and will clunk clunk clunk till it locks in. I am guessing this is the shift arm adjustment issue or something. Any help would be great. I will get out with the multimeter and check the stuff in your videos to see if I can resolve it. Thank you.

I need to replace these tubes in my boat, they were split by the original installer. How do you remove them without damaging the exist hole?

professionally installed foam years ago. store cold at or near mid 70's, i live in florida so i dont expose the resins to the ambient air until its go time. also the mix is very important. a proper mix looks nearly all 1 shade of banana pudding...caramel swirls no good. that shows up later in the cured foam. when the blobbs have large bubbles 1/8" + and semi translucent thats a sign of a bad mix. use a drill with a paint mixer, then drop mixer into bucket with acetone to reuse. that same 15 seconds with a drill gives 100 x's the quality of mix. a tip to help the foam flow to nooks and crannies as specially for my fellow boaters near the equator. do it first thing in the morning before it gets hot. the chemical reaction creates heat, and the reaction is also sped up by heat so its self accelerating. the cooler you store the resin and the cooler the part being foamed the longer it will remain liquid allowing it time to move before the rise. so store cold, pore cold in the morning, then as it cures and the sun comes out it will get a nice heat cycle to cure. by lunch youll have a finished product as good as a million dollar boat. i have also mixed in a gallon zip lock bag for small batches, snip the corner off and its very clean way to dispense with no buckets to clean.

Hey Mike, I have a 1995 four win with a 5.0. Where do you find parts for the out drive? Thanks in advance

Why is foam used

Hi Michael, I am back on my boat project and about to put my 3 layers of Marine Grade plywood together just as you did for the transom. Two 3/4" pieces and one 1/4. My question is: Once bonded together would it be better to use 1708 to wrap it or 22oz toling fabric? A friend mentioned the tooling fabric becasue it lays smooth. I am a first timer with all of this and have the 1708 on hand but havent used it yet.

You’re a good man

Define soon?

Great video any idea what or where I can find the info if the wires have all been taken off without putting them right to the new cap? My engine seems to be exactly what you’re showing there.

What’s the part #for that kit and does it include the bearing?

Thanks for this video! I have a '92 OMC with a 4175 spread bore carb but the basics were the same and this helped me out a ton

Great video! Changed cable easy lined it up with tool. When I put it in reverse it goes in gear and I can’t turn the prop. All good. But when I put it in forward gear it doesn’t fully engage and I can still spin the prop with my hands. If I start it on the trailer and try to put it in to forward gear it sounds like it trying to go into gear but it doesn’t I checked the bell crank and the cable is pulling it all the way back and it can’t come up anymore.

So what's the point of a water pump.? Water pump and propeller? And will it cause flames out the exhaust?😢

I bought a boat in Cleveland and brought it home . They said they put a new shift cable on for Ford and reverse one from the handle to the motor went from the motor to the drive. Neither one work how do I fix that? And is there an exhaust flapper that goes on these things because we had to pull the motor and put into water jackets, not water jackets freeze plugs in the back of the four-cylinder and there wasn’t one in there but there was just a rod in my buddy says that in the cobra you don’t need to replace them but is this true? Please let me know.

Where did you get the pump?

Hey Mike, you've helped me a lot with your videos. I've installed the oil seal and gimbal bearing, but now we're struggling to get the engine aligned. The tool seems to be binding about halfway through the turn of the tool. Any suggestions?

wouldn't polyester resin have been a better choice? the styrene in the resin is what breaks down the chemical binders in the fiberglass. maybe im wrong, but while i was watching i kept saying why does the glass still look bone dry and instead of a homogenous mix, it resembles more of a vegetable soup

Thank you for sending me the link to this video. Super helpful!!!

Michael I have a starter that not only stays engaged but keeps cranking once engines fires up. No grinding is heard but I can’t for the life of me find the electrical anomaly after testing the starter, replacing ignition switch, and solenoid…any ideas?? I’d like to get on the water

How do I know if I have the correct shift cable? What length should it be?

Michael, Im in the process of repairin an oil pan on a 5.0 penta, on a four winns horizon. Your videos have been very helpful and I thank you for making them. However white removing the lag bolts on the port side, both bolts broke off within the fiberglass. I was wondering if you had any info, or videos detailing the repair of the mount itself? As I need to replace the wooden mount, and the fiberglass now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Im attempting to put mine back together. Do i have to put the boat in neutral foward or reverse ?

Hey, whats the part number for the alternator belt?

Thank you!

Michael these videos are awesome! thanks for much for videos. I have a question and I feel its something that Can be an easy fix. I thought I had an issue with the shift cable. But after taking the lower unit off. Saw it was still shifting fine. Went to hand move the propeller when in forward and it locks, and in reverse it locks. Also in neutral it is free spinning. But when I grab the drive shaft to crank it will not move the prop. Would this be the issue? A dog shaft? It sounds kinda ugly when hand moving the drive shaft.

Quick tip, use a rubber band around the claws , it’ll keep them together while you spin the cone

Hey Mike I was hoping you could help me with my 93 4.3 cobra prestolite ignition

doesn't look like the upgraded detent can be used on the 7.5l King cobra. Am i wrong?

Hey I bought one of those concrete blades to take down any big areas of grinding and let me tell ya that works great it does cut a lot fast so you have to be careful but curious what you think of that

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

Cutting torch tip cleaners work well for cleaning the jets

This boat-renovation series is the most detailed and thorough of the dozens I've found on RUclips, and you're to be commended for that. In addition, you are one of the only people to use EPOXY resin for all your laminating. Unfortunately, you don't talk much about that choice and why it's so very important in rebuilds like this. As you undoubtedly know, you're essentially GLUING new wooden components (stringers, transom, etc.) onto the boat's existing, cured polyester-laminated hull. In other words, the attaching new to old involves secondary bonds that are structural, not chemical. So, the "glue" (resin) has to be really strong. Though it's fine for building a new boat in a female mold, polyester resin is weak glue, whereas epoxy resin is very strong glue. That's fundamentally why epoxy is FAR superior for renovation projects like yours. Followers who are seriously considering such rebuilds don't need to take my words for this. Information on the comparative bond strengths of the two types of resin abound on the internet. But one of the very best sites (and the very best epoxy components) can be found via the homepage of the WEST System (originally the Gougeon Brothers). These people pioneered the use of epoxy in boat building and repairing, and they offer not just products but lots of practical , thoroughly proven usage advice. Hope this helps. Chris (in Maine)

I thought the fitting came with two rubber o-rings too?

Just got my first outboard and in the same situation. Also only owned inboards. So thanks.

Amazing videos, this video is what I'm currently doing now. FWIW You can use a plunge router also.

I need to replace my engine coupler. What are the torque specs for it?

Very helpful. Thank you.

Great job, I have to do this in a few days.

Great video very helpful thanks

Sir, you are an absolute saint, thank you so much for these videos and information!

My Motor mount are not like that at all Mine has a Nut and Bolt not a lag its made from 3 2x4 glassed in

Brass would have been my pick for screws.

Hey Mike thanks for the vid, after 35 years one of my trim rams started leaking, I had bought a couple of spares some years back because my boat is all salt water use, so I didn't think the old one would come apart. I was able to get the cylinder cap off pretty easily (surprise) and the end piece that is screwed onto the rod came off with a little brute force but didn't have to use heat. The only thing I did slightly different was to make a guide out of an alu can following the instructions that came with the kit, I folded over the tabs as shown in the instructions and taped them to the housing to keep the alu from sliding inside while sliding the piston in well lubed up with T&T fluid. I used blue loctite on the threads for the end piece and used a bit of triple guard grease on the threads for the cylinder cap in case I ever have to take it apart again. I think it costs about $500 to get these done at a shop, a few hrs and $50 for a kit, is a great deal!

The pink RV + Boat antifreeze is used in the water holding tanks / plumbing...not foe engine blocks

You should NOT use water tank RV antifreeze.....it is harmful to your gaskets.You need MARINE ENGINE antifreeze... West Marine and other boat shops handle the CORRECT antifreeze// it has lubrication oil to help block from rusting and harming gaskets. FYI don't be cheap

Do you think if this is damaged, it could cause water to be getting into the engine and mixing with the oil?

How do u chk float levels? This carb?

The last time I checked the original style Carter pumps were available for both the Ford engines and my '88 4.3 over at either Jeg's or Summit racing. The trick is to go over to Carter's website and look up their actual part number for the pump. I also found a Sierra one that fit and worked perfect.

Now that is scary! I installed a gas vapor detector in my boat just for this reason, that is REALLY DANGEROUS. Always sniff for fumes before even putting the blower on! This is why some people will only have outboards!

I've been changing those fuel filters each year for about 20 years and never had one look like that, I think you have water in the fuel tank because the filter looks rusted. I would be wanting to clean out the fuel tank before trying to run it again. Or else you might have a repeat of what happened. Check the gasket on the fuel cap and also the gasket for the fuel gauge sending unit.